Georgia still on my mind

Back to Georgia. This time for the yearly birding trip with the Mike, Steve and Dick.

First port of call, Kazbegi Nature Reserve, created by the Soviets in 1979 and named after a local lord who supported Russian rule in 19th century. We stayed in Stepantsminda (St. Stephen in Georgian) which, at 1,740m, lies in the shadow of the 5,033m Mt. Kazbek - a dormant volcano, first climbed in 1868 by the London Alpine Club.

The Russian border is only 15km away, but the ambitions of Georgia do not extend in that direction.

First job, celebrate the first day of my official retirement. You can sense the excitement.

And in the morning, out to look for the local speciality - Caucasian Snowcock (Tetraogallus caucasicus), only found in these mountains.

At our feet alpine flowers were in bloom: Gentiana angulosa...

...Primula auriculata...

...and Primula amoena.

It is extremely difficult to locate single Snowcocks on a mountain through a telescope, so we outsourced the activity to an Italian staying at our hotel - and he delivered!

Next speciality on the list, Caucasian Grouse (Lyrurus mlokosiewiczi). Early one morning, we went to a scree slope nearby where they are seen regularly. First we spotted the Eastern Caucasian Tur (Capra cylindricornis), regarded as a separate species, or sub-species (cylindricornis), from the western type species (Capra caucasica).

Then the Grouse. At this time of the year they are lekking - the males getting together at a fixed spot to display competitively to attract females. We watched the males jump up and down.

Driving through the woods at the foot of the mountains, we saw some other local birds: Red-fronted Serins (Serinus pusillus), found from Turkey through the Middle East.

Among them, a Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) of the Turkish/Caucasian sub-species kubanensis.

A Red Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra) of the guillemardi sub-species, found from the Balkans to the Caucasus.

In the fields in the valley, Ring Ouzels (Turdus torquatus) of the Turkish and Caucasus sub-species amicorum.

We had hoped to see two other specialities of the Caucasus: Great Rosefinch and Güldenstädt's Redstart - both living on the snowline. However, it had been a warm Spring, and the snowline had moved high into the mountains. We looked higher still, walking up above the Gergety Trinity Church at 2,170m and scanning from the road pass.

The most common bird on the snow, the Water Pipit (Anthus spinoletta). Here the sub-species coutellii, found from Turkey to Iran.

We saw a high mountain plant found only in the Caucasus: the Violet Pasque Flower (Pulsatilla violacea).

Red-billed Choughs (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax) flocked together with Alpine Choughs (P. graculus) - which have yellow bills, and fly over my house in Switzerland.

And what else would you expect to see at 3,000m, but a brown frog. It looks a bit of a mess, as it searches for a small pond in which to mate.

Surely it must be the Caucasus Frog (Rana macrocnemis)?

Another common sight on a mountain pass in Georgia - a lady with purple hair, dancing.

Chasing the snowline failed to provide Güldenstädt's Redstart. Plan B was to check in the valley on Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) - on which it is known to like to feed.

No problem finding a Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros). Here the sub-species ochruros, which has orange extending up to the 'waist' (the red is confined to the tail in the European sub-species, gibraltariensis).

We even saw a female Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus). Again a local sub-species, samamisicus, which has a pale panel on the wing.

Flitting through the trees, the Mountain Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus sindianus) of the Caucasus sub-species lorenzii (there is another sub-species in the eastern Palearctic) - much browner than the Common Chiffchaff, with a pinkish-brown breast and a pale throat and eye stripe.

Our hearts missed a beat when a bird with a red breast, red tail and dark back flew in front of the car and settled on a rock. Not our target species, but still a nice Rock Thrush (Monticola saxatilis).

On the farmland around the Buckthorns we saw Northern Wheatears (Oenanthe oenanthe)...

...and Goldfinches (Carduelis carduelis) collecting nesting material.

So we left Kazbegi without Great Rosefinch or Güldenstädt's Redstart. We needed a drink. And what better place for a glass of wine than Chateau Eniseli in the Alazani Valley, 15km from Dagestan. We had a very passable red, made from the Saperavi grape - which originated in this part of Georgia.

The winery has an old charm. The owner has covered it with pictures his grandmother took over Europe during WWI when working for the Red Cross. But the Russian invasion after the war put an end to that life, and they are now in a state of recovery - part of which is drinking wine with Steve.

Moving south, a coffee stop at Sighnaghi allowed us to look back across the valley to the Dagestan mountain border - and watch hirundines swooping over our heads.

Our destination - the Chachuna Reserve, down on the border with Azerbaijan.

We drove out of Dedoplistskaro...

...stopping at the area of quarries on the way south. Here flowered the spotted poppy Papaver comutatum, found from Turkey to Iran.

Nesting in a hole in some old machinery, Finch's Wheater (Oenanthe finschii), a middle-eastern species.

It can be separated from other black and white Wheatears by its white back - which can be seen when it flies.

Rich pickings here for a Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio) male...

...and female.

An Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana) shows off his yellow moustache.

Flying in the ground cover were Zephyr Blues (Plebejus pylaon), a species found only locally in southern Europe. Its specialisation on some Milkvetch species (Astragalus) my be responsible for this.

And a fiery Lesser Fiery Copper (Lycaena thersamon) - a south-eastern species again with a specific host plant, the Common Knotgrass (Polygonum aviculare).

Clouded Yellows (Colias crocea) were doing what comes naturally.

In a pond by the road, we were surprised to see European Pond Terrapins (Emys orbicularis).

We moved south across the green plains, covered with yellow crucifers.

Here grazing goats and sheep are moved by shepherds and their dogs, and cows are hand milked in pens.

The roadside birds were pleasantly tame. Calling from the shrubs were Corn Buntings (Emberiza calandra)...

...and Black-headed Buntings (Emberiza melanocephala).

A Crested Lark (Galerida cristata) takes a dirt bath...

...necessary to maintain its elegant form. I assume it is the sub-species subtaurica, that is found from central Turkey through to Iran.

Plenty of Calandra Larks (Melanocorypha calandra) scurried at the road's edge.

Joined by Tawny Pipits (Anthus campestris).

A muddy pond, for watering cattle, attracted a Red-Throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus) - a rare treat, in transit from its wintering grounds in the Middle East to summer in the Arctic.

In the shrubs, Lesser Grey Shrikes (Lanius minor)...

...and Woodchat Shrikes (Lanius senator).

A lot of birds nest in sand banks beside the road. Isabelline Wheatears (Oenanthe isabellina), with their characteristic erect posture...

...Hoopoes (Upupa epops)...

...and Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster).

Flocking from tree to tree, Rose-coloured Starlings (Pastor roseus).

A calling Lesser Whitethroat (Sylvia curruca).

Two species of pigeon were in the area: Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)...

...and Rock Doves (Columba livia) - the wild version of our city Feral Pigeon.

The Buzzard in these parts is the Long-legged (Buteo rufinus).

Marsh Harriers (Circus aeruginosus) quartered.

The further south we drove, the dryer it became.

But, you just had to look at your feet to find magnificent colour.

Taking advantage of the nectar, a Carpenter Bee.

You might think being a spider is a safe enough life - until you meet a Spider-hunting wasp like Cryptocheilus discolor.

With legs longer than my teenage daughter, a Desert Ant (Cataglyphis sp.) wanders over the stony ground. I read that they can stand temperatures higher than any other insect - and feed on other insects that have died of heat stress.

Another desert creature, a Stone Grasshopper of the family Pamphagidae.

An impressive Bee Fly.

Steve took a snap of this beautiful Orange-banded Hairstreak (Satyrium ledereri). In Europe it's only found on the island of Samos in the Aegean! It lays its eggs specifically on an obscure plant only found on dry rocky mountains, Atraphaxis billardieri.

And this bright Fritillary (Melitaea sp.). Steve thinks it's the Spotted Fritillary,  M. didyma, which is found all over southern Europe - and is a very variable species. But I wouldn't rule out the non-European species arduinna, persea, transcaucasica or trivia.

In my blog on the island of Tinos, I showed the Starred Agama. Here we have the Caucasian Agama (Laudakia caucasia).

We stopped the car many times to carry Spur-thighed Tortoises (Testudo graeca) off of the road to safety. 

Their taxonomy is under review, with over twenty sub-species currently recognised. In Georgia one finds T. g. ibera.

T. g. ibera forms a local population in Georgia, the larger population spreading throughout Turkey to Greece.

Steve photographed this long reptile crossing the path. It looks like a snake, but it is a Slow-worm (Anguis fragilis) - a legless lizard. Here it is the sub-species colchicus, found in south-east Europe and the Caucasus. In western Europe we have the nominate sub-species.

A number of bird species like this habitat. The Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia) of the sub-species prageri, found from Turkey to Iran.

...Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica) - pale-throated variety...

...and Chukar (Alectoris chukar) - the sub-species kleini, found from Greece to the Caucasus.

There was even a cuckoo (Cuculus canorus) in the trees.

The area is a known breeding stronghold for the Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca). We saw an empty nest on top of a pylon - and later had good views of the juveniles, which may have just fledged.

Always impressive, the monstrous White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla).

A big white bird flew past. We thought it was a pelican, as a lake was near, but it is an Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus).

A Hobby (Falco subbuteo) showed off his red 'trousers' in the dawn light.

We went further up towards the mountains on the border with Azerbaijan, where shepherds worked.

Here, gullies provided sandy banks for nesting Rollers (Coracias garrulus).

And it was here we saw our third species of Pigeon, the Stock Dove (Columba oenas) - which should really be in a forest.

Overhead, a Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus).

And, at the foot of the mountains, mud volcanoes.

We had booked a stay in the Chachuna Reserve - a green area along the banks of the river Lori, which flows out from the dammed lake. At night the reserve provided a wall of sound that Phil Spector would be proud of - the soprano calls of Scops Owls and Nightingales piercing through the baritone of the frogs.

The reserve wardens looked after us.

We spent an evening walking along the river bank. We saw Little Tiger Blues (Tarucus balkanicus) - a species of south-east Europe and the Middle East. Its host plant is the Jerusalem Thorn (Puliurus spina-christi) - whose spiny branches are told to have formed Christ's crown of thorns. The larvae are tended by ants.

In the Croatian blog I showed a black Blister Beetle with red stripes. Here's a red one with black stripes - I assume from the same genus, Mylabris.

Another beetle seen in Croatia, an Oxythyrea Chafer - only here the species is cinctella and not funesta (compare only one pair white spots on the pronotum, instead of three).

Shield bugs of the genus Dolycoris.

Another Bee Fly, but more fine and delicate: Bombylius ater.

Steve took this picture of a Darter Dragonfly (Sympetrum sp.).

Finally, the drive back to Tbilisi to catch the plane home. A male Pallid Harrier flew over.

We felt short-changed that we had not seen the one key bird we had come to see in the south - the Demoiselle Crane (Grus virgo). It spends the winter in Africa, and in summer flies up to the Russian Steppes to breed. But a small population stops in this area en route. In a last desperate attempt, we pulled off the road before Tbilisi and drove south to the small Kapatadze Lake.

As we rounded the corner to see the lake, four cranes flew towards us and settled on the bank in front of the car - as if by magic.

Something to celebrate!